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When curating a list of London’s top restaurants, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. Yet, situated high among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” says the proprietor, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small shop earning such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has retained much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, toastier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.